Vitamin A Derivatives and Photosensitivity
One important consideration with retinoids (both topical and oral) is that they can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. This is especially relevant around the eyes, where the skin is thin and delicate.
Mechanism: Retinoids increase epidermal turnover, thinning the stratum corneum (outer protective layer) and exposing newer keratinocytes to UV radiation. This lowers the natural barrier function of the skin against sunlight.
Clinical effect: Patients may notice they burn more easily or develop redness and irritation with even moderate sun exposure. This effect is well described in both dermatology literature and clinical practice.
Cosmetic relevance: For clients using retinoids as part of anti-ageing care, sun protection is non-negotiable. Without it, UV exposure can negate the very collagen-preserving benefits retinoids are meant to provide.
Practical advice:
Use a broad-spectrum SPF daily (at least SPF 30, ideally 50).
Avoid applying retinoids in the morning — night-time application is standard.
Around the eyes, stick to retinoid formulations specifically designed for periocular use, and keep them off the lash line.
Sunglasses with UV protection further safeguard the delicate eyelid area.
Use the Opti Laboratories Sun Protect Serum to protect your eyelashes & brows, to help maximise growth.
Key message: Retinoids are outstanding for anti-wrinkle care, but they demand consistent photoprotection. For clients also concerned with lashes and brows, it’s worth remembering that excessive UV can damage follicles too — making UV-blocking strategies doubly important.
Where things get complicated: hair, lashes, and brows
Hair follicles are exquisitely sensitive to vitamin A levels and this can lead to a paradox:
▪️Adequate vitamin A supports normal follicle function.
▪️Excess vitamin A (from oral retinoids or high-dose supplements) can trigger telogen effluvium and madarosis (loss of brows/lashes).
How might vitamin A cause eyelash and eyebrow loss?
The exact mechanisms are not fully understood, but several pathways are thought to explain why excess vitamin A or systemic retinoids can lead to hair shedding, including the brows and lashes:
Premature transition to the telogen phase
Vitamin A and its derivatives regulate keratinocyte differentiation in the hair follicle.
At high levels, they appear to shorten the anagen (growth) phase and push follicles into telogen (resting/shedding), leading to diffuse thinning or lash/brow shedding.
Altered stem cell and keratinocyte signalling
Retinoids influence pathways such as Wnt/β-catenin, which are essential for follicle cycling. Overstimulation may dysregulate normal follicle renewal, making hairs more fragile.
Sebaceous gland suppression and local dryness
Isotretinoin reduces sebaceous activity, which may lead to brittle lashes and brows. This mechanical fragility, combined with telogen shift, accelerates visible thinning.
Inflammation around hair follicles
Some systemic retinoids cause perifollicular irritation and inflammatory changes (seen in meibomian glands of the eyelid margin), which can aggravate lash shedding. This inflammation can be seen when excessive topical retinoids lead to skin redness, particularly around the mouth.
Dose-dependent effect
Studies consistently show higher risk of hair loss with higher isotretinoin doses (>0.5 mg/kg/day) or chronic vitamin A intake above recommended levels.
In short: while normal levels of vitamin A are essential for follicle health, excess intake, whether from medication or supplements, can tip the balance and disrupt the natural growth-rest cycle, leading to eyebrow and eyelash loss.
Expert View: Retinoids, UV, and Hair Follicle Health
Retinoids accelerate epidermal turnover and temporarily thin the stratum corneum, the skin’s first line of defence against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. With less of this barrier in place, UV can penetrate deeper into the skin, reaching the upper parts of hair follicles. Experimental work has shown that UV exposure alone can disrupt the hair cycle, pushing follicles prematurely into regression and damaging stem cell populations essential for regrowth and pigmentation (Jiang et al., Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2020). While direct clinical studies on retinoid-treated skin are still limited, the biological plausibility is strong: retinoids may render follicles more vulnerable to oxidative stress and UV injury. For this reason, it is important to emphasise pairing retinoid use with UV protection to preserve both the skin and the hair it supports.
Reference:
Jiang L, Zhang W, Wei Y, et al. Effects of UV-induced photoaging on the hair follicle cycle of C57BL6J mice. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020;13:593–602. doi:10.2147/CCID.S260414